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About Gay Trondheim:
Gay bars & scene in Trondheim, Norway
Nestling amongst the mountains at the edge of a grand fjord sits Trondheim, one of Norway’s most charming cities. It’s not the most northerly city, Tromsø has that distinction, but it’s far more cosmopolitan and energetic than its sister in the Arctic Circle. With cultural activities, an incredible landscape and plenty of opportunities for excursions, Trondheim is a beautiful and compact city that makes a perfect Scandinavian short break destination.
There are several options in getting there. Trondheim is not currently on the budget airlines’ route map, but you can easily get connections from other Norwegian airports served by Ryanair, and trains run from the country’s major cities. The best way of getting there would be by coastal steamer (called the Hurtigrute) from Bergen, taking in the full majesty of Norway’s fjord-packed western coastline, and arriving at Trondheim’s impressive port.
It’s also true that northern Norway is not the cheapest holiday destination. Life at such a remote latitude can be costly. But there are options for the budget traveller. Hostel accommodation, for example, is inexpensive, clean and of a very high quality. Also, because of the way that alcohol is highly taxed in Norway, you might not be buying a round for everybody, but so be it, it’s no bad thing to ease up on the alcohol consumption once in a while!
There are some things that you can’t put a price on, for example, we spied a sea otter sitting on the quayside, eating a fish it had just caught in the river. In how many city centres of the world would you encounter something like that?
Trondheim is a beautiful and grand city. Its centre is plonked on a small island, bound by a smooth-flowing river on one side and the wild open fjord on the other. Its skyline is dominated by the wonderfully gothic and ancient Nidaros cathedral, plus the brightly-painted old wharfs and jetties that make up the old town.
The Norwegian royal family even have a palace in the centre. It’s made of wood and, compared to the British Royals, is oddly accessible.
Although the city is small, there’s plenty to do. Trondheim is host to many museums focusing on everything from decorative arts, to seafaring, and musical instruments.
The newly-opened Pirbadet is a fabulous indoor swimming pool complex that looks out onto the fjord and a great spot for passing a few hours bobbing around in the water. There’s great shopping too, from cosy arts and crafts to fabulously chic Scandi designer goods, clothes, market produce and more. Hire a bike and putter around to get the full scope of the place (if your legs get tired you can use the one-of-a-kind bike lift to help you up the hill).
Further afield there are innumerable hiking, biking and walking (and skiing and skating in the winter) opportunities in some of the most beautiful landscapes that you will ever witness. Ask at the tourist office for details.
Norway is one of the most progressive and tolerant counties in the world, regarding homosexuality, and it’s very unlikely that you’ll encounter any problems. Metro is the centre of gay activity in the city, and it’s here that you can pick up papers, flyers and information, or just pass the time of day.
Trondheim is far enough north that, in the summer, it doesn’t really get dark. It’s hard to describe the effect of the light on people, but it underscores a late night café and pub culture that’s laid-back and hard to resist. The winter can be dark and cold, but the Norwegians have had a lot of practise in making life cosy and comfortable against the elements – and there’s always a chance of catching the Northern Lights too.
Intro: By way of internet and a four cylinder engine, we came face to face with a dozen lesbigay folks in Finland, Sweden and Norway, some married to their lovers, some cohabiting, others happy not to be coupled up. In warm evening cafes, aromatic restaurants and squeaky-clean living rooms we heard and saw what it was like to be homosexually inclined in modern Scandinavia.
On one of Trondheim’s downtown tree-lined streets is Cafe Remis Pub and Diskotek neatly house in a brick building. On the front wall hangs a large rainbow triangle at eye level. It could easily be torn off–but it wasn’t. In the arched window was a large poster advertising Trondheim’s Pride Week (last week in September) which included films, lectures, dances and ‘grand events’.
Further south, glaciers once crawled across the mountains of Norway in eons past, gouging out enough fords and lakes for the whole planet. The most recent melt happened about ten thousand years ago leaving behind some stunning present-day wonders such as the huge Jostedal glacier.
In Bergen, a couple of hundred miles further south, the ancient Hanseatic League warehouses still stand along the waterfront in proud bright colors. Fresh vegetables and flowers are sold at the harborfront market while others huddle over hot coffee or tea. Narrow crooked streets wind their way up the hills to Old World houses looking out to sea.
Near the university and the Grieg Concert Hall the gay Cafe Fincken and Club Fincken are self-described as the “only real ‘gay’ place in Bergen”. The street-front cafe is open during the daytime, serving light meals. It looks collegiate with numerous reading materials lying about. At night it is more of a pub. Nearby is the Club Fincken, a disco with dance floor and two bars. These places are small so the mood is friendly and nice and, as expected, it is most crowded Fridays and Saturdays.
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